Saturday 10 January 2009

Romania Week 13 - The Day of the Dead & a visit to the 'European capital of culture 07' Sibiu

Hello everybody,
well we're having a dreary wet day here in Transylvania, and there is talk in the hills of the first snow coming in two weeks... But here in little Tarnaveni, we have had an eventful week, with the introduction of Halloween traditions to our neighbours, and the following day (November 1st) being the so called ' Day of the Dead'. Despite the horrific ideas that may be passing through your minds, this day is a day where people go to the graves of passed loved ones, and rather than just visit the grave, they actually spend significant amounts of time by the graveside, remembering their relatives. This is a very special day here, and people travel long distances to be with the family at the grave sites. Here in Tarnaveni, as in many of the villages around this area, the cemetery is on the hillside, and during the evening, which is the common time for people to visit the graves, the entire cemetery is lit up. Here most people appeared to be using red waxed candles, which gave the hillside a very visible red glow from the river path. I had been told of this event, but that evening walking along the river, seeing the cemetery lit up, and hearing that many families were there at the graves, some eating sandwiches and sitting together around the stones, gave the night a chilled feel. And as the mind plays tricks on us I thought that even the dogs seemed to be howling louder than usual. (This is not not specific to Romania, my researcher in Poland informs me this occurs there too.) I almost met my own demise that night as I passed over the railway bridge, one of the panels had fallen down into the river and in true style here there were no notices to say 'watch out'! I was fortunate enough to not have stepped into the now empty space, as a 20 metre drop awaited me... this is a common sight here, with road work season in full swing... many holes appear randomly all over the pavement, road, and paths, with no barriers or signs of warning. The idea here seems to be, if you fall down a hole, it’s your fault, which actually I prefer to the 'law suit of responsibility' that now seems to have infected every action we take in a day in the UK.

The second major event this week was yesterday's trip to the 2007 European Capital of Culture - Sibiu. Lying here in Transylvania we thought it was a must to visit, and so myself, and Karen (Helen's parents were visiting this weekend) got the 0645 bus, which did exist this week... it arrived over 40 minutes early... (Say nothing) but on arriving at Sibiu bus station we thought we would confirm (what the internet had told us to be) the one return bus that day at 1830. The woman was somewhat untypically unfriendly, and on the occasion she did left her head up to acknowledge us, she mumbled that there was no return bus that day to Tarnaveni (home). I thought here we go again! We decided instead to get a bus back to the nearby Turges Mures, which when we arrived back at the bus station later that day, we were told that bus did not exist either!!! So yet again, a 'day trip', even to the European capital of culture, led to transport chaos! We eventually got a train 3 hours later, to a place called Medias, where we could get a taxi home from!

Anyway, SIBIU: it's another beautiful little town, with a Germanic influence in its architecture, many different coloured buildings surround the town square, and with several old citadel towers to climb up, panoramic views are a plenty. The city had been the former Saxon capital of Transylvania, and had the tell tale ring of city walls, (helping to keep out the Turkish invaders 3 times in its history) throughout its centre. There were a few museums including the museum or developed homeopathy, with was really developed around these parts... Cafe's and bars are not over running the place, and it has a hefty student population.. there is a free rock concert in the square next week, headlined by the Scorpions! I'm half tempted to go back! Whilst Liverpool (next year’s capitol of culture) may have a problem living up to Sibiu's rich history, it will certainly have a bloody bus out of town!!!!
Other events this week, included a Halloween party (see above) for a few of the kids on the street, and myself, and Hungarian sister Becky, Judith & Shari, along with Peter (Hungarian friend) enjoyed FREE drinks at a local bar, because of Becky and peter's cross dressing costumes, and our scary masks!!! (Free drinks!) I have also been sampling a little too much of the local drink (Palinka)... but my head finally recovers a little with each passing day!
Regards from Romania
Dan

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